• Food & Wine
    • Active & Green

Valtellina, a history of grapes and rock.

Automatically translated

There where the Adda River casts its waters to form Lake Lario, at the confluence of Valchiavenna and Valtellina, a food and wine and nature trail of the first order begins.

With the inauguration of the new SS 36 bypass, travel on the raised highway from Morbegno to Tirano gives us the dimension of the grandiose wonder that begins to appear before our eyes as we head north.

This is ancient land... The designation "Tellina vallis" first appears in a text by Ennodius, bishop of Pavia, from the early 6th century. By now, all scholars of history and toponymy agree that the name derives from the curial Latin "Vallis Tellina, Vallistellina," meaning Valley of Teglio. Teglio is precisely an ancient town overlooking the middle Adda Valley. The first permanent settlements are due to the Ligurians, followed, perhaps between the 12th and 9th centuries BC, by the Etruscans. In particular, Virgil, Pliny the Younger and Martial tell how, in pre-Roman times, the first Ligurian settlements had imported their traditional terraced farming techniques into Valtellina. In Liguria's Cinque Terre, the terracing system was built with only local stones and soil, creating an area of about 2,000 hectares, in a coastal strip that reaches a height of 500 meters above sea level, sometimes starting just a few meters from the shore. A work that leaves us speechless!!!

Once settled in Valtellina, these Ligurians applied in the cliffs of the Alps the same construction techniques used on the Tyrrhenian coast, transforming the mountain and creating about 820 hectares of cultivated walls, distributed on rocky slopes stretching from west to east, from the bottom to the top (from 300 meters up to almost 800).
The low walls accommodate small portions of land-often extending for a few dozen meters-in which vines are rooted, dialoguing with the rock. The rock sustains the terracing, the vine sustains the rock: in this bond is found the role of the winemaker, protagonist of a mosaic of interconnections, with the land, the landscape, the beauty and the wine.

First of all, what jumps out at us today is that the terracing stands only on the left, while on the right we see only typical natural vegetation. The terraces are placed this way for an obvious reason of maximizing the use of sunlight, which coming from the right, floods the mountain on the left in the early morning. And therefore, the more exposure to the sun, the more sugar the grapes will have and consequently, the better the quality of the wine.

In such specific geographical and climatic conditions, Nebbiolo, a native black grape variety of Piedmont, grown mainly in the hills of Langhe-Roero, but also in some neighboring regions of Piedmont, such as Lombardy (in Valtellina, precisely, under the name Chiavennasca), has adapted perfectly. These grapes grown on terraces produce fine bottles of wines that have become the symbol of Valtellina: Sassella andInferno.

According to a legend, when the dry stone walls were built with the large stones collected on the spot, which served to refract the sun's heat - thus achieving a rise in temperature - the resulting wine was called "SASSELLA." If, on the other hand, the terraces were built with the large green stones collected in the upper valley, the reflection of the sun's heat was thus much stronger because of the preciousness of these stones, thus generating an even more generous harvest . Because of this greater heat, the resulting wine was called "INFERNO."

But the most prized pearl of Valtellina, however, is SFORZATO, a passito made from the best bunches of Nebbiolo grapes, chosen at harvest time after careful selection.

Immediately after the harvest, which usually takes place slightly earlier than normal production, the crop is laid out for about three months on fruit/grapes inside dry, well-ventilated rooms. The particular name of this wine derives precisely from the technique of "forcing" the ripening and drying of the grapes. After the drying phase, the grapes will have developed special aromatic fragrances, concentrating juices and going so far as to lose as much as 40% of its own weight. At this point it will be ready for crushing. Finally, there follows at least 20 months of aging and refinement inside wooden barrels and in bottles, where the wine will reach an alcohol content of 14%.

We see that in these territories, behind every gesture there is a tradition that has its deepest roots in the past, just like the vineyards clinging to the mountain. Generations of farmers have shaped the land by adapting it to need, they have indulged the landscape without violating it. And it is precisely because of their cultural, environmental and aesthetic role that these terraces have obtained the recognition of Historic Rural Landscape-a title that complements the recognition acquired in 2018 for "The Art of Dry Stone Wall Construction," as an Intangible World Heritage Site.

Doesn't all this make you want to take a tour of Valtellina's wineries? And to think we haven't even mentioned pizzoccheri and bresaola, two other tasty Valtellina specialties!

-

Ph: teglioturismo.com

Text edited by EDDY BEDENDO, ConfGuide-GITEC certified guide

If you enjoyed this story, CLICK HERE to discover its various itinerary suggestions.

On the same topic

Tasting in Lombardy: Five flavoursome experiences

  • Food & Wine
Mete Golose_Franciacorta

Wine and Flavor Trail Oltrepò Pavese

Oltrepo Pavese has always been recognized for its wines and most of those who have had the pleasure of going to this part of the province of Pavia, will remember above all its hills and stretches of vine rows
  • Food & Wine
Wine and Flavor Trail in Oltrepò Pavese, history taste and traditions

Typical Lombardy mountain dishes

Discover Lombardy's typical high-altitude dishes. Dive into traditional Alpine cuisine and its authentic flavours
  • Food & Wine
Typical Lombardy mountain dishes - Pizzoccheri Valtellina

Delicious Bergamo!

  • Food & Wine
Tagliere di salumi bergamaschi

Wine and Flavor Trail Varese Valleys

It extends in the northern part of the Province of Varese, to the north of the capital city up to the border with the Swiss territory offering the opportunity to learn about the typical products and to discover the beauties of the landscape of the valleys and lakes
  • Food & Wine
Wine and Flavor Trail of Varese Valleys, discover them

A gastronomic tour of Lake Iseo

Lake Iseo is rich in nature, history, culture, and unique flavours. Start your taste adventure here.
  • Food & Wine
A gastronomic tour of Lake Iseo

Cotoletta a la Milanese Recipe

His secret? Cutlet, breadcrumbs and... fry in a frying pan with bubbling butter
  • Food & Wine
Cotoletta a la Milanese recipe, a world famous delicacy

Lodi cheeses

Curiosities and characteristics of cheeses for you to taste in Lodi and surrounding area
  • Food & Wine
Formaggi lodigiani

Zuppa Pavese Recipe

The pavese soup, taste of old dishes, those that were born from the few ingredients available
  • Food & Wine
Zuppa Pavese recipe, a soup fit for a king

At table, from Cremona to Mantua

Lambrusco and squash tortelli. Mustard and roasted meat. Contrasts and harmonies in traditional flavors to taste
  • Food & Wine
At table, from Cremona to Mantua

Grana padano

Typical Italian DOP cheese
  • Food & Wine
Grana Padano

The appetizers of the Lombardic tradition

We bring the traditional Lombardic gastronomic culture back to the table, starting with appetizers
  • Food & Wine
The appetizers of the Lombardic tradition

Wine and Flavor Trail Valtellina

A scenic road through the terraced vineyards
  • Food & Wine
Strada vino e sapori Valtellina, percorriamola insieme

Where to eat in Lecco

  • Food & Wine
The 6 best proposals about where to eat in Lecco

Panettone recipe

The secret of the preparation of the panettone: one of the typical sweets of the Milanese tradition
  • Food & Wine
Panettone recipe, a Milanese staple

Eating in Como

Here are some suggestions of what to eat in Como
  • Food & Wine
Eating in Como, 3 culinary worlds and 5 different restaurants

What to eat in Cremona and the surrounding area

Typical dishes you should try in the Cremona area
  • Food & Wine
Cosa mangiare a Cremona e dintorni

What can I eat in Cremona?

The main courses of Cremona’s tradition
  • Food & Wine
What can I eat in Cremona?

The Province of Pavia, Italian Capital of Rice

  • Food & Wine
Risotto

Peperone di Voghera

The Voghera pepper is a native and valuable variety that deserves special attention for its unique organoleptic characteristics.
  • Food & Wine
Peperone di Voghera