• Food & Wine

The appetizers of the Lombardic tradition

The unique appetizers of the Lombardic gastronomic tradition: salami, pan dorà, insalata di nervetti, mondeghini, rebecchini, sciatt, and chub pate.

 

In the cuisine from Lombardy, appetizers have an ancient tradition. If the French imported during their 36 years of domination of Lombardy (between 1500 and 1800) the so-called hors d'œuvre ("out of work", that is, typical dishes of the Grand Cuisine), in reality, the Romans never joked at all about the subject of ante-pastum. A custom that has continued over the centuries, not only on the richest tables, to inaugurate banquets and dances, but also on the most humble Sunday tables, which, making up for the scarce possibilities, drew from the imagination, combined with the domestic gastronomic talent and the rich tradition of regional cuisine of Lombardy. 

Still current even today, the cold and hot appetizers from Lombardy reflect the eclecticism of contemporary cuisine, but tradition remains the protagonist of many courses that start meals, dinners and reign supreme over aperitifs and happy hours. The dishes that have disappeared from the Lombardic gastronomic tradition have been rediscovered, the forgotten flavors revitalized, the rare ingredients reappeared, often reworked in new dishes.

These are ancient foods, dishes cooked by the poorer classes, that were served in the taverns of Lombardy, such as pan dorà (golden bread), nervìtt in insalada (nervetti salad), rebecchini, mondeghini, sciatt... many with Italian names that don’t have an English equivalent. Here are some tasty and simple example to make, to bring to the table.

 

Which appetizer contains no cold cuts?
The Italian antipasto par excellence, also the one from Lombardy, is based on cured meats. So, first of all raw and cooked ham, with which, on the DOC (Protected Designation of Origin) Lombardic table, hard-boiled eggs should not be missing, as in the past in Trani (the taverns where bulk wine was drunk in Milan). They are served as they go well with alcohol and since they are seasoned with oil, salt and pepper, they tickle the appetite.

Among the best Lombardic sausages is certainly the Bresaola della Valtellina, which since 1996 has been protected by the IGP mark (Protected Geographical Indication). Traditionally bresaola is seasoned with oil and lemon and pepper or served with pickles (mushrooms, artichokes, peppers) which give this fat-free sausage a sweet note, preferable to the sour pickles.

All cured meats from Lombardy are rightly renowned: Varzi salami, a DOP product from Oltrepò Pavese, has been known since 600 A.D., when it was produced by the monks from the Abbey of San Colombano di Bobbio.

And then there is the salami of duja della Lomellina, small sausages preserved in lard inside terracotta containers from which they take their name. And in addition, there is the sweet Mantovano salami, flavored with garlic macerated in white wine. A suggestion: it is better to combine the pickles - classic green chilies and onions - with fatty cured meats, which clean the palate.

 

Lombardic meat appetizers
Among the best known Lombardic appetizers, especially in the area around Milan, the place of honor goes to the nervetti, or nerves, prepared with the less noble parts of the veal calf, knee cartilage and the shin that is boiled, cut into strips and seasoned with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and spring onions. They are eaten with a crunchy texture, at room temperature.

The small meatballs inherited from the Milanese by the Spaniards (1525-1700) also deserve a place of honor: the albóndigas, which have become known as Mondeghili in the local dialect. A humble dish prepared with stale bread softened in milk, meat (once what was available at home, mixed with sausage and mortadella) and eggs, must be fried, strictly, in butter. In the lard, on the other hand, pan dorà, a "bread cutlet" simply prepared with stale bread that has been breaded and cooked, it should also be fried.

The protagonists are the Lombardic cheeses
The delicious Lombardic cheeses are a typical ingredient of traditional appetizers, such as the Lodi Raspadüra, which consists of very thin cheese leaves, originally obtained from the imperfect forms of Granone. And then, there is never a shortage of croutons: among many, the Taleggio croutons, are a fragrant cheese from the Bergamo valley of the same name.

Another important cheese is the leading actor in a popular Lombardic appetizer, the baked Belgian endive stuffed with gorgonzola and walnuts, a true concentration of flavor! This famous cheese, which has been DOP since 1996 and originally from the homonymous town, in the province of Milan, has appeared on Lombardic tables since the 15th century!

With Casera and buckwheat, an exquisite specialty of Valtellina is made: tasty pancakes stuffed with cheese, called sciatt in dialect, meaning toads, due to their swollen and irregular shape.

 

Polenta and semolina to whet your appetite
Polenta is not necessarily a single dish however it serves as an excellent ingredient for making small courses that prepare the palate to enjoy the richest first courses. Classically Lombardic, the tasty rebecchini, squares of polenta stuffed with anchovy sauce and then fried or baked, are perfect appetizers that invite you to make a toast.

The semolina polenta is the basic ingredient of the margottini, from the name of the smooth mold used to cook these cakes typical of the valleys of Bergamo. They are prepared by alternating layers of semolina with slices of branzi or gruyere and parmesan and depositing a whole egg yolk in the center. A few minutes in the oven and a real surprise for the palate is ready!

 

Lake fish pate
Finally, among the traditional Lombardic appetizers, those made from fish cannot be ignored… fresh water, of course! Here is an ancient one, certainly interesting, that we find both in the Como area and in the Brescia area: the chub pate, a lake fish with a delicate and very healthy flavor, served in a jelly. But be careful: if you want to try your hand directly on the stove, bone it with the utmost care, it is a coveted fish to taste, but difficult to prepare!

On the same topic

Cassoeula in Brianza

Typical Lombard dish of peasant origin
  • Food & Wine
Cassoeula in Brianza, history and variations

Fagiolo Borlotto di Gambolò

The Borlotto bean has been cultivated for centuries in the agricultural area of Gambolò and its immediate surroundings.
  • Food & Wine
Fagioli Borlotto

Andiamo a Tavola

33° Edition - Eating in Cremona and province
  • Food & Wine
Andiamo a Tavola

Campagna Amica, the Sunday markets

In Stradivari Square in Cremona
  • Food & Wine
Campagna Amica, the Sunday markets

Grana padano

Typical Italian DOP cheese
  • Food & Wine
Grana Padano

Rassegna Gastronomica del Lodigiano

The flavours of tradition
  • Food & Wine
Rassegna Gastronomica del Lodigiano

Risotto e rane

Risotto with frogs, a symbolic dish of the Lomellina tradition
  • Food & Wine
Risotto e rane

A toast to the vineyards and wineries of Lombardy

Lombard vineyards and wineries are eager to welcome tourists and visitors to enjoy the last phases of the harvest. 
  • Food & Wine
Calici alzati nei vigneti e nelle cantine della Lombardia - San Colombano

Consortium Salami Cremona IGP

An institution to identify, safeguard and promote on the market a typical product of the Po valley
  • Food & Wine
Consorzio Salame Cremona IGP

What can I eat in Cremona?

The main courses of Cremona’s tradition
  • Food & Wine
What can I eat in Cremona?

For Wine Cellars in Lombardy

Rows of vineyards line the countryside, producing some of the finest wines in the world. Exploring Wine Cellars in Lombardy
  • Food & Wine
Vineyards in Sondrio in Valtellina

The mantua pumpkin

From peel to seeds, pumpkin is a real "jolly" in the kitchen
  • Food & Wine
The Mantua pumpkin

Cremona and the project EastLombardy

Cremona and its sweetness are closer than what you think
  • Food & Wine
Marubini

Bergamo, hunting for flavors

Valleys of extraordinary beauty, like the city that looks at them from the walls. Wines, cheeses, pasta.
  • Food & Wine
Bergamo, hunting for flavors

Discover Lodi with traditional cuisine and produce

Chef Simone Virtuani and his secrets to making the perfect risotto
  • Food & Wine
Discover Lodi with traditional cuisine and produce

Flavours of the Oltrepò Pavese: Autumnal weekends away within a stone’s throw of Milan

Discover Pavese – Enjoy an autumn weekend of tradition, culture and flavour among the most charming villages of the Oltrepò Pavese. Take a look at this list of ideas and get inspired.
  • Food & Wine
 Flavours of the Oltrepò Pavese:  Autumnal weekends away within a stone’s throw of Milan

A gastronomic tour of Lake Iseo

Lake Iseo is rich in nature, history, culture, and unique flavours. Start your taste adventure here.
  • Food & Wine
A gastronomic tour of Lake Iseo

Delicious Bergamo!

  • Food & Wine
Tagliere di salumi bergamaschi

Lombard Mostarda Recipe

With a strong taste, the mostrada is prepared with fruit, sugar and mustard essence
  • Food & Wine
Lombard Mostarda recipe, an ancestral flavor

Receipts of Cremona's tradition

Tasty news from the Museum of folk Culture “Cambonino”
  • Food & Wine
Receipts of Cremona's tradition