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Domofole Castle
Between legends and reality
On a rise in the middle of the San Giovanni valley stands out, clearly visible from the valley floor, a mighty tower with gray stones, Domofole Castle.
Together with part of the surrounding wall and churches built nearby, it constitutes what remains of the ancient Domofole Castle.
First mentioned in a document from 1125 as a garrison of the noble Vicedomini family, feudal lords of the Bishop of Como, the Castle was destroyed a first time as early as 1292 by the Guelph Vitani, only to be rebuilt again by the Vicedomini. The final dismantling of the Castle, however, can be traced back to 1524 when the Grisons, new masters of Valtellina and Valchiavenna, decided to decommission the fortifications of the recently gained valleys.
The tower, which has a quadrangular plan, has thick walls that were once provided with numerous loopholes, consisting of two faces of squared stones with interspaces of mortar and stone. The structure was divided into several floors lit by windows, and the entrance, for security reasons, was elevated above the surrounding ground.
There were two churches, both dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, one medieval and one dating from the 18th century. All that remains of the former are apsidal ruins that have revealed signs of ancient frescoes, while the latter has a simple, rustic structure, with a gabled facade, and externally entirely of exposed stone.
There are numerous legends related to the tower that refer to queens and princesses imprisoned within its walls. Among these would have been imprisoned there in 634 Gundeberga, daughter of Queen Theodolinda, accused of infidelity by her husband. Yet another tells how, in the 10th century, Adelaide of Burgundy, fleeing across the Alps to escape marriage to Adalbert, son of Berengar, was joined by her betrothed at Domofole and imprisoned there. She regained her freedom through the intervention of the cleric Martin of Bellagio, who gave her in marriage to Otto of Germany.
For further study we recommend the book "A View from Domofole Castle. Materials and reflections for a history of the lower Valtellina of the Middle Ages" by Rita Pezzola.
