• Mountains
    • Active & Green
    • Art & Culture
    • Sport

The climbing and hiking museum

Automatically translated

Climbing in Valmalenco began in the 19th century, a time when this sport was not yet widespread.

In 1862, British climbers Edward Shirley Kennedy and Leslie Stephen, accompanied by Swiss guide Melchior Anderegg and collaborator Thomas Cox, conquered the "glorious peak," the summit of Mount Disgrazia (3678 m), marking the birth of mountaineering in the valley while stimulating the development of tourist activities.

In 1872 the Valtellina section of the CAI was inaugurated, and in 1880 the Scerscen-Marinelli refuge (2900 m) was built. The dawn of the new century witnessed an unprecedented development of mountaineering and more generally of high mountain tourism: hotels were built, more refuges were built, and a new professional figure became widespread: the mountain guide. The Marinelli was expanded in 1905, and in 1913 the Marco and Rosa on the Bernina, at 3600 meters, was erected.

In the 1980s, Alfredo Corti was born in Tresivio, a lover of science, mountaineering and photography...but above all else of Disgrazia, which he photographed with the large 13 x 18 view camera, then with the large 9 x 12 camera and finally in the futurist 6 x 12 stereoscopic format, leaving us a heritage consisting of hundreds of glass plates.

The second edition of CAI 's Guide to Valtellina , published in 1886, bore the names of four Alpine Guides from Valmalenco: brothers Pietro and Giacomo Scilironi from Spriana, and Michele and Enrico Schenatti from Chiesa. Giacomo Scilironi (known as El Fuin) was a specialist on Disgrazia. In 1884 he was commissioned by the Engineer Corps to build, together with the two Schenatti brothers, a hut for scientific observations on the crest of Disgrazia, a short distance from the summit. Mountain guides would often be found busy building huts and bivouacs. Among other things, Michele Schenatti explored the Scais and Scalino mountain groups with Antonio Cederna. His guide booklet, issued to him in 1880 by the then president of CAI Valtellinese, Count Luigi Torelli, a politician of the Risorgimento, is preserved. Enrico Schenatti, Michele's cousin, worked mainly on Bernina and Disgrazia. He participated in the first mountain guide course in 1898. In his guide booklet is the note: Climbed the Bernina with the Gher (his dog), because there were no clients. In 1906 he made his 100th ascent of Disgrazia with his daughter Alice Pia.

In the early 1900s there were five mountain guides in Valmalenco: Enrico Schenatti, Silvio Lenatti (progenitor of another family of guides), Casimiro Albareda (his was the first ascent of Piz Argent), Carlo Albareda son of Giovanni and Carlo Albareda son of Abbondio. The guides were joined by seven porters (today's aspiring guides), including Ignazio Dell'Andrino , who in 1914 made, with Baccio de Ferrari, the first ascent of Disgrazia's NE ridge, the famous "Corda Molla." Nino Dell'Agosto is one of the five first ascenders of Gran Zebrù, he deserved the Silver Medal for Military Valor, his is also the first ascent with Alfredo Corti of the East Ridge of the Kennedy Peak.

In the late 1930s, a golden period for the mountains of Valmalenco, several personalities came to the fore. Giacomo Schenatti (1903-1989), whose first ascent of the N face of Disgrazia (1934), considered one of the most elegant routes in the Central Alps, is remembered. Cesare Folatti (1898- 1988) of Torre Santa Maria, known as Piz, was Luigi Bombardieri's trusted guide. In 1932, together with Peppino Mitta and Bombardieri, he completed the legendary Roseg - Scerscen - Bernina traverse. In 1933 the same completed the ascent of the great SO gully of the Forcola d'Argent, later called "Canalone Folatti." Folatti was janitor of the Marinelli-Bombardieri hut until 1973, from 1926 to 1942 also janitor of the Marco and Rosa hut at Bernina, traditionally always run by Valmalenco guides.

One of the oldest lineages of mountain guides and hut managers is the Lenatti family. Silvio Lenatti (1858 - 1915) was one of the guides participating in the first mountain guide instruction course in 1898. His sons Livio and Giovanni Lenatti built the Nuccio hut in Val Sissone, which in 1930 passed to SUCAI of Milan under the name Pigorini hut, destroyed by a landslide in 1950 and replaced by the current Tartaglione-Crispo hut, erected in a higher and safer location. In 1936 the Milan CAI entrusted Livio Lenatti with the management of the Gerli-Porro refuge at Alpe Ventina until 1980. He took an active part in the construction of the Taveggia bivouac and was a proponent of Alpine Rescue in Valmalenco (1950).Enrico Lenatti (1930 - 1998), Livio's son, a guide since 1957, took over from his father in the management of the Gerli-Porro refuge. He became head of the Valmalenco Mountain Rescue Service. Their tradition does not end, we have today mountain guides Alberto Lenatti, ski instructor and instructor at mountain guide courses, Diego Lenatti (manager of the Ventina refuge), Livio Lenatti, Enrico's son, Floriano Lenatti, Giancarlo "Bianco" Lenatti (current manager of the Marco and Rosa refuge).


Attachments

colta_documenti_museo_multimediale_arrampicata.pdf

On the same topic

Imagna Valley among woods, spirituality, and villages

Tra sentieri e mulattiere accompagnati dal dolce fruscio delle foglie
  • Mountains
Imagna Valley among woods, spirituality, and villages

Walking with an Alpine Guide

  • Mountains
Walking with an Alpine guide

Winter sports near Bergamo

Val Seriana, Val Brembana and Val di Scalve await you with their cross-country trails, snow parks, toboggan runs and skating rinks.
  • Mountains
Sport sulla neve - Valli bergamasche

Livigno: winter magic among snow, history and traditions

Visit Livigno to savor its magic
  • Mountains
Livigno: winter magic among snow, history and traditions

Sports activities and relaxation in Bormio and Santa Caterina—skiing, excursions and hot springs

Bormio and Santa Cristina are the preferred winter holiday spots for holidaymakers looking for a state of complete bliss, immersed in the dazzling white Alps. Find out more.
  • Mountains
Sports activities and relaxation in Bormio and Santa Caterina—skiing, excursions and hot springs

Carona

Located in the heart of the Orobie, it has always been considered the pearl of the Upper Brembana Valley.
  • Mountains
Carona

Valle Brembana, a complete mountain experience

Nature, culture and gourmet delicacies. Valle Brembana is a valley that knows how to entice tourists wanting a holiday that is both sporting and relaxing
  • Mountains
Valle Brembana, montagne tutte da vivere

Skiing in Valtellina

Valtellina ski land all year long!
  • Mountains
Impianti e suggerimenti per sciare in Valtellina

Snowshoe trekking

A winter trek with snowshoes on one's feet is a very pleasant experience for everyone, adults and children
  • Mountains
Ciaspolate in Lombardia

Valpredina

Visit the WWF nature reserve of Valpredina.
  • Mountains
Valpredina

Summer is more beautiful in the Bergamasque Valleys

Val Brembana, Valseriana, Val di Scalve and Valle Imagna: a family-friendly holiday in the valleys of the Bergamasque Alps 
  • Mountains
Cascate del Serio (BG)

Ski mountaineering in Valmalenco

The classic routes
  • Mountains
Scialpinismo in Valmalenco

Brembana Valley

Trails between woods and peaks, snow-covered ski slopes ... come and discover all the outdoor activities in Val Brembana.
  • Mountains
Brembana Valley

Skiing in Piani di Bobbio

The Piani di Bobbio, in Valsassina, are marvellous during the summer season, and become enchanting during the winter
  • Mountains
A tutto sci ai Piani di Bobbio

By train in the snow

Guide to ski resorts where you can go skiing safely by train with Trenord deals
  • Mountains
Tips and deals for snow train rides in Lombardy

A day in Chiareggio

A gem in Valmalenco
  • Mountains
A day in Chiareggio

Five places to visit in Valdidentro

Esplora Valdidentro, nel cuore delle Alpi lombarde, e scopri paesaggi mozzafiato, sentieri escursionistici e attrazioni storiche.
  • Mountains
Ph: I Mille

Weekend in Valchiavenna

Land rich in traditions and artistic and cultural beauties... come and discover them too!
  • Mountains
Valchiavenna - Fotolia

Fishing in Sondrio and Valmalenco

4 fishing areas, on the valley floor on the river Adda, on the Mallero creek, or on the alpine lakes of Campagneda.
  • Mountains
Fishing in Sondrio and Valmalenco

Mount St. George and Mount Ursa

A hike among fossil deposits, historic trenches and unspoiled greenery in the heart of Varese province
  • Mountains
Mount St. George and Mount Ursa