A culinary stroll down memory lane

Lombardy reserves a special place among the scents and flavours of autumn for its traditional country desserts, born of simple traditions and the seasonal nature of local produce, such as grapes, chestnuts and apples.

These age-old recipes have been handed down through the generations and can still be sampled today in local bakeries and shops, but tasting them is more than just a culinary experience – it is a journey down memory lane. To savour this experience to the full, simply set off on a journey through the places where tradition has shaped these delicious autumn specialities.

When grapes taste of celebration (VA, CR, MN)
A stroll through Busto Arsizio, in the province of Varese, combines the charm of Art Nouveau villas, palazzos and wrought-iron decorations, with a taste of figascioeu. This sweet focaccia, made with strawberry grapes and sugar, is based on a recipe that has been a staple in traditional bakeries for generations. In the centre of Crema, on the other hand, a stroll through Piazza Duomo, with its stately palazzos, ancient gates and the surviving sections of the Venetian walls, sets the scene for a delightful afternoon snack. In autumn, the only choice is torta bertolina, a homemade cake prepared with strawberry grapes, for which every family has its own recipe. Visitors to Mantua can take a stroll through the Peri-urban Park, along the circular path around Lago di Mezzo, between the Ponte dei Mulini and Ponte di San Giorgio bridges, passing through green spaces overlooking the water and spots from which to admire the city’s Renaissance In the city, sugolo is a tasty treat after a walk: a soft dessert made with grapes or grape must, which originated in the countryside as a way of preserving the harvest until winter.

Harvest flavours (CO, LO, BG)
In Erba, in the province of Como, you can venture into the Bova Valley, exploring woods, limestone cliffs and karst formations, all the way to the huge cave known as the Buco del Piombo. Back in town, autumn offers the chance to enjoy the masigott, a rustic local dessert created to celebrate the end of the harvest, made with various types of flour and enriched with raisins, pine nuts and candied fruit. In the Lodi area, the Adda Sud Park invites visitors to follow the course of the river through the countryside, wetlands, ancient locks and mills, along a route that also passes through the territory of Maleo. Here, along with the nearby town of Codogno, the quince has left its mark on the local cuisine with cotognata, which has a firm texture and a sweet, aromatic flavour. In Gandino, in Val Seriana, you can reach the Parafulmine mountain hut from the area around Monte Farno, crossing the Montagnina pastures and enjoying sweeping views of the surrounding hills. In this area, spiny maize is a prized local variety, which has been grown in the valley since the 1600s. It forms the basis of melgotto, a delicious biscuit made from yellow maize flour, created specifically to make the most of this maize.

Rustic bakes for the early autumn chill (SO, BS)
In Sondrio, the Anello delle Cassandre route starts in the town centre and winds its way up through the historic districts of Scarpatetti and Ponchiera, passing through the Grumello vineyards to the footbridge suspended over the Mallero gorge. The landscape changes rapidly along the route: from the city streets, it transitions to cultivated terraces and then to more open views of the valley and the surrounding mountains. On the way back, it’s time to try some bisciola, a sweet bread from Valtellina with added raisins, figs and dried fruit, perfect for the early chills. Preparations for this traditional winter dessert began early in autumn, when the fruit to be dried was harvested in the valley. In the Caino area, in the province of Brescia, there are woodland walks in Val Bertone, following the course of the stream among the conifers, beech trees and chestnuts. A cosy, shaded setting, which is particularly charming in autumn, when the woods take centre stage even at the table, with patuna, the traditional Brescian chestnut cake made with chestnut flour and often enriched with raisins and pine nuts.

The Ognissanti [All Saints] tradition (MI, PV)
November 1st and 2nd is the perfect time to try pan dei morti in Milan. This is a sweet treat made with crumbled biscuits, nuts, raisins and spices, and associated with the commemoration of the dead. You can combine the tasting with a pleasant stroll through courtyards, balcony-lined houses and views of the water, starting from the Basilica of Sant’Eustorgio, along the Naviglio Grande, the Vicolo dei Lavandai, all the way to the Darsena and the Naviglio Pavese. Between late October and early November, pangialdine - bakes with a distinctive golden colour that comes from maize flour - make their return to Pavia’s bakeries. Once associated with other festivals in the agricultural calendar, they are now also prepared for All Souls’ Day, keeping a flavour of Pavia’s cuisine alive. Anyone visiting the city at this time of year should be sure to take a walk between the Ponte della Libertà and the Ponte Coperto bridges before crossing the river to the charming Borgo Ticino with its colourful houses and views of the city skyline.

The art of recipes using left overs (LC, MB)
In Mandello del Lario, about a quarter of an hour from Lecco, you can stroll through the historic centre, taking in the narrow streets, colourful houses and arcades, past the Church of San Lorenzo before reaching the gardens, and continuing along the lakeside promenade, with the mountains as your backdrop. Here it is easy to find meascia, a traditional dessert from Mandello, which comes in many variations, traditionally made in farmhouses using flour, fresh and dried fruit, and whatever ingredients were to hand at the time, and once baked over the hearth in a tin-plated copper pan. Moving on to Brianza, the LIPU Cesano Maderno Nature Reserve can be explored along a path that takes in woods, clearings, heathland, small streams and ponds. In the bakeries and patisseries across the province, you can also sample the torta paesana, also known as torta di pane [bread cake] or michelacc. It is made with stale bread, which is softened in milk and transformed with cocoa, amaretti biscuits, raisins and dried fruit into one of the most recognisable desserts of Brianza’s cuisine..