The Artesso Woods

From Laghetto di Artesso, a small lake in Valvarrone, a path winds its way up through the larch trees to a summit overlooking Lake Como. In autumn, the trees change colour, and the path alternates between secluded stretches in the woods and spots where views open up over the Valtellina and the Alps.

Laghetto di Artesso is a small lake set in a green basin among the woods above Sueglio. On the banks there is a fountain, as well as tables and benches where you can take a break. This pleasant, peaceful spot is where the footpath begins. Just a few minutes’ walk away is the Roccolo di Artesso, an ancient structure comprising trees and nets used to catch migratory birds, which has been home to a research station studying bird migration patterns since 1996.
To get to Artesso from Dervio, take the SP 67 road through the Valvarrone valley as far as Vestreno, then take the turn-off for Sueglio and carry on towards Loco Tocco and Monte Lete. The road is narrow, with a few hairpin bends, and leads to the small lake, where you can park. The path immediately enters the woods and continues smoothly, running alongside what remains of the First World War defence system, the Cadorna Line: artillery positions, observation posts and trenches, described on information boards along the route. After about an hour, the woodland opens out onto the valley of Roccoli Lorla, where the mountain hut is situated.
Climbing up from Artesso means spending the first hour of the walk entirely in the woods, at a time of year when the larch trees are turning warm shades of colour. To reach the summit, at 1,714 metres, it is a 3.6-kilometre one-way walk with an elevation gain of around 500 metres, taking two hours. Up to Roccoli Lorla, there are no forks to navigate in the path, which is well-maintained; the route has no exposed sections and is moderately challenging, suitable for walkers with a reasonable level of fitness.
To reach the summit, you can choose between the ‘direttissima’ route, which is steep but short, and the military road, which is gentler. After about thirty minutes, the route first passes a picnic area with a view, then the little church of San Sfirio, near other structures on the Cadorna Line. From there, it is just a few minutes’ walk to the summit cross, which overlooks the upper part of Lake Como. On the way back, it is best to descend via the military road: in half an hour you will be back at the Roccoli Lorla refuge and from there to Artesso via the route you took earlier.