• Food & Wine

Traditional cheeses of lombardy

It is from Lombardy that some of the most famous Italian cheeses come from all over the world

If, like me, you adore cheese, then Lombardy is the place for you! This region is home to some of Italy's most famous cheeses, which we find every day in our supermarkets, but next to which there are also some "gems", quite special but less well known.

The flat lands – so the southern part of the region – are where some very famous, widely available cheeses originate, such as Grana Padano DOP, Gorgonzola and mascarpone, fundamental ingredients of local dishes. But there are three other more unusual products that also originate from this area. Bella Lodi, recognisable by its black rind, offspring of the venerable "father of all grana cheese", Granone Lodigiano, is often served as raspadura (shavings).  Salva Cremasco derives its name from being made to "save" (salvare) the excess production of milk in springtime and today, along with Taleggio and Provolone Valpadana, is protected by the Associazione Alti Formaggi. Lastly, Pannerone of Lodi, a cheese with absolutely no salt, is the object of a Slow Food Presidium and is currently only produced by Caseificio Carena.

The cheeses of the mountainous part of Lombardy would merit a treatise to themselves - every valley, every village, every shepherd's hut has its own highly traditional, quality product.

On this front, the province of Bergamo – and in particular Val Brembana – is an incredibly productive territory. Here is made the very famous Taleggio and the best opportunity for tasting it in all its shapes and varieties is certainly the Taleggio festival. Formai de Mut DOP and Branzi are another two cheeses frequently used in local dishes, particularly together with polenta taragna. In this same fertile territory another Slow Food cheese is made, Stracchino delle valli Orobiche. Its name originates from "stracc" (tired), because it was made from the milk of cows that were tired, resting on their long journeys to fresh pastures. Agrì di Valtorta is another Slow Food cheese that is little known and hard to find, for it is made exclusively by the local cooperative from the milk of 12 small local farms. The Arca del Gusto (SlowFood) project safeguards products at risk of extinction including, among many others, two other cheeses made in this valley: the blue cheese, Strachicunt DOP, still in existence thanks to one sole cheese-maker, and Fiurì di Valtorta or "flower of ricotta", so-called because made from a by-product of ricotta, so that nothing is wasted during the process.

The neighbouring province of Brescia also has a great production of cheeses. First and foremost is Bagoss di Bagolino, also known as "the cheese that cries" owing to the peculiar noise it makes when cut. Then there is Fatulì della Val Saviore, a rare goat's cheese of ancient origin, whose name, "little piece" alludes to its small size. Both are Slow Food presidia. Like Fatulì, Silter too comes from Val Camonica and is named for the place where it is matured. Between Lago d'Idro and Lake Garda there is a mountain that has given its name to a cheese - Tombea, of which only about a hundred cheeses are made each year by a single cheese-maker, who proudly carries on his family tradition.

Different valley, different cheeses – Valtellina, in the province of Sondrio, next to the productive Val Brembana, is the home of Bitto Storico, one of the symbols of Lombard cheese making, made up to over 2000 metres above sea level and key ingredient in the preparation of pizzocheri. Less known but equally precious for their rarity and risk of disappearance are Matusc, made when the animals move to fresh pastures in spring and autumn, and Scimudin, originally made of goat's milk and made at home in small quantities for family consumption.

We could continue to talk of new cheeses for pages and pages, however these are undoubtedly the areas richest in cheese-making traditions in Lombardy. All of Lombardy is criss-crossed by countless Strade dei Sapori (food and wine trails), promoted by local authorities and by the Region - an excellent starting point for discovering these and other cheeses. To learn more about the cheeses mentioned you can also take part in local festivals, of which there are many, often hard to locate online. One of the most important is the Taleggio festival held each spring. Bitto and Gorgonzola have their festivals in September. Those who would like to try a variety of different flavours and products should not miss the Salone dei formaggi brembani e dei vini della bergamasca (wine and cheese fair). In the province of Pavia each year a very curious competition is held… the Rolling Cheese Cup, where they compete in traditional cheese throwing. The cheese, obviously, must not be wasted, so at the end of the competition it is eaten, accompanied by local wines. I wouldn't miss it for the world!

 

On the same topic

Freshwater fish: a true Lombardian menu

Lake and river fish in Lombardy: between tradition and innovation, Lombardian fish cuisine offers up some delicious dishes
  • Food & Wine
Pesce d’acqua dolce: un menù tutto lombardo - Tinca

Grana padano

Typical Italian DOP cheese
  • Food & Wine
Grana Padano

Risotto e rane

Risotto with frogs, a symbolic dish of the Lomellina tradition
  • Food & Wine
Risotto e rane

Flavors on the lakes: Como and Varese

Lakes and mountains. Tasty dishes, heritage of rural culture
  • Food & Wine
Flavors on the lakes: Como and Varese

Zucca Bertagnina di Dorno

In Dorno, pumpkin cultivation has an ancient tradition. In particular, a variety of pumpkin called "Bertagnina" was historically grown.
  • Food & Wine
Zucca Bertagnina

Pane di San Siro

I San Sirini: a typical sweet of the feast of the patron saint of Pavia
  • Food & Wine
Pane di San Siro

Eating in Como

Here are some suggestions of what to eat in Como
  • Food & Wine
Eating in Como, 3 culinary worlds and 5 different restaurants

At table, from Cremona to Mantua

Lambrusco and squash tortelli. Mustard and roasted meat. Contrasts and harmonies in traditional flavors to taste
  • Food & Wine
At table, from Cremona to Mantua

Receipts of Cremona's tradition

Tasty news from the Museum of folk Culture “Cambonino”
  • Food & Wine
Receipts of Cremona's tradition

Flavours and aromas of Valtellina

The Valtellina is a place for relaxation and good living, not least because of its inviting food and wine. Let's go and discover it
  • Food & Wine
Flavours and aromas of Valtellina

Cremona Nougat Recipe

It is a variation of the traditional sweet that includes the addition of aromas such as vanillin and candied fruit, which make the mixture softer based on sugar, honey and album
  • Food & Wine
Cremona Nougat Recipe, homemade goodness

Panettone recipe

The secret of the preparation of the panettone: one of the typical sweets of the Milanese tradition
  • Food & Wine
Panettone recipe, a Milanese staple

IGP Apples of Valtellina

This type of apple has all the characteristics of mountain apple: crunchy, fragrant, aromatic and juicy
  • Food & Wine
Apples

Typical Lombardy mountain dishes

Discover Lombardy's typical high-altitude dishes. Dive into traditional Alpine cuisine and its authentic flavours
  • Food & Wine
Typical Lombardy mountain dishes - Pizzoccheri Valtellina

Wine and Flavor Trail Oltrepò Pavese

Oltrepo Pavese has always been recognized for its wines and most of those who have had the pleasure of going to this part of the province of Pavia, will remember above all its hills and stretches of vine rows
  • Food & Wine
Wine and Flavor Trail in Oltrepò Pavese, history taste and traditions

Franciacorta Wine

An ancient art that unites, in perfect union, with the most modern technologies and the mastery of the winemakers of the territory
  • Food & Wine
Franciacorta wine, an international success

Bata Lavar

A traditional pasta dish from the town of Canneto Pavese
  • Food & Wine
Bata Lavar

Eating in Lodi: starters to dessert

From cheese to amaretto biscuits, here's all you need to know to indulge in some delicious Lodi specialities
  • Food & Wine
Risotto_giallo_con_la_raspadura

Discover Valtellina: ideal destination for an authentic mountain experience

Discover the winter edition of Valtellina Nascosta
  • Food & Wine
Discover Valtellina: ideal destination for an authentic mountain experience

A little bit of Valtellina on the table: sciatt

  • Food & Wine
A little bit of Valtellina on the table: sciatt